Late last year, I had a chance to visit a truly special space in the United States: the workshop of an independent American watchmaker. Lovell Hunter showing components on a bench in his workshop. Photo Credit: Lovell Hunter's YouTube channel. I've written about Lovell Hunter before, I posted my first story about Lovell right here on Horolonomics. There, I described his career as a watchmaker for Breitling and his decisions to strike out on his own and launch an independent brand called Love Hunter Watches. Lovell and I have kept in touch since then and he periodically reaches out to share updates on the progress of his watch design as well as other updates regarding his brand.
At one point, Lovell invited me to visit his workshop, which is located in Connecticut's Naugatuck River Valley. The location couldn't be more appropriate given that "Brass City," aka Waterbury, is located on the northern portion of the valley. Brass has historically, and presently, been a popular metal for fashioning watch and clock components suck as wheels and other movement parts. While Waterbury is no longer the center of brass production in the United States, at one time convenient access to brass drew clockmakers like Terry & Andrews to the Naugatuck Valley. From this perspective, Lovell's workshop represents a rebirth of watchmaking in western Connecticut.
When I entered the lobby of Lovell's workshop, I was greeted by a replica Eiffel tower built from Legos. I'm not certain I've seen a Lego construction that large short of the sculpture-esque pieces assembled by Master Builders. It seemed fitting in many ways.
Lovell's workshop has three sections past the lobby. The first is an area for assembly, design, and photography of his work. Here you find a number of watchmaker's benches, which are the hallmark of any serious workshop. Two plates and a crown manufactured by Lovell. Perlage finishing is well excuted here and the knurling detail on the crown evokes FP Journe's crowns. Also included is bar stock from Lovell's workshop.
The next section is where Lovell has two lathes for making blank parts. This area also holds a number of machines for finishing work, including polishing and brushwork. Alongside one wall in this area is a library of books on watchmaking.
The final section of Lovell's workshop is more isolated than the others, for good reason. It is here that Lovell "makes chips," ie does precision machining of parts using relatively heavy equipment. Lovell operating his high precision mill. He has three Schaublin lathes in this part of the workshop. He previously installed some of his lathes in a basement workshop, which is a challenging feat given how heavy they are. Alongside the lathes, Lovell has two high precision milling machines. He spent a little time using one of them while I was visiting his workshop.
In addition to Lovell's continued work on his first timepiece, he is also dedicated to the transmission of watchmaking skills. I met one of his apprentices during my visit, who was clearly directly engaged in the process of machining parts. Lovell also teaches students at a number of local institutions.
Lovell is acquiring additional watchmaking skills even as he finishes his first timepiece. One day, as I was scrolling through Instagram, I saw him in a photo taken at the California workshop of legendary independent American watchmaker Josh Shapiro. There, Lovell participated in a one week workshop on finishing by watchmaker Philippe Narbel, who worked for eight years with Audemars Piguet in Switzerland.
Lovell is close to completing his first timepiece, a moment I am very much looking forward to. In the meantime, he does have a Gofundme campaign set up in case any of my readers are interested in supporting his dream of establishing an independent top-tier watchmaking brand in the United States. On the Gofundme page, you'll also find a YouTube video in which Lovell gives a guided tour of his workshop.
My book on the history of Rolex marketing is now available on Amazon! It debuted as the #1 New Release in its category. You can find it here.
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News recently broke that watch brand Rolex was on the receiving end of a €91 million fine levied by French authorities. A view of Rolex's offices in France. Source: Google Maps. Generally, the headlines ascribed this fine to Rolex's alleged practice of prohibiting online sales of its watches. However, I've looked closely at the situation and I don't think those headlines are completely accurate (although they're probably what French authorities would want you to believe). I came to this conclusion after reading a Google translation of a 134 page report issued by the French Competition Authority on December 19, 2023. Generally speaking, such documents do not make for engaging reading. However, for those who know how successful Rolex has been at maintaining a comparatively high level of corporate secrecy, the French report provides a compelling and rare insight into some specific aspects of the brand's business. It is these insights which lead me to conclu...
The other day, I was poking around in Swiss business registries (as one does on a weekend) when I noticed that Jörg Bucherer was still listed as the "president and delegate" of luxury watch retailer Bucherer, AG. A Rolex clock in front of an AD in New England. Since Bucherer, the man, passed away on November 8, 2023, this clearly raises some questions. More curious was the fact that Rolex ownership of Bucherer, the business, was not indicated in Bucherer's commercial registration and Rolex's own business registrations did not indicate a lash-up with Bucherer. News of Rolex's intent to acquire Bucherer broke roughly eight months ago. Now, I will admit that I do not understand or know all the nuances involved in Swiss business registration. I do know that registrations are administered by the Swiss cantons (roughly equivalent to states in the US) so perhaps this was simply a matter of delay in updating the registrations across cantons (Rolex is registered in G...
There's a quip in the world of finance: "nobody rings a bell at the top or bottom of the market." AI generated image of someone looking for the bottom of a chasm. If you're on a trading floor, you know it is the start of the day because of the "opening bell." But, if you reach the low point for prices, there is no bell. Everyone just has to do their best to figure out if prices are finally going to start increasing again. This is certainly true of watches. According to Chrono24's Chronopulse index of watch prices (full disclosure, I've contributed to this index), we've just begun the third year of a "bear market" for preowned watches. Chronopulse overall index of late. The rate of decrease in prices has certainly slowed, but there hasn't been an overall turnaround in prices just yet. It is hard to say if we're at the bottom or if we're just on a gentle downslope that will continue for the near term. Right or wron...
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